Lara Reid Table November 12th, 2018 - 07:09:52
This metal is way softer than the metal in the blade for your saw, so it cuts pretty well. I also saw that they sell these square wooden dowels that fit borderline perfectly into this aluminum tubing. So I put two and two together and I realized that, with the strength of the wood inside the tube it no longer wants to bend and now because I have the wood inside of the tube, I have something that I can screw into and make strong joints As of now, I haven't finished the table yet so I'm not a hundred percent sure if this is gonna work, but I think it will so let's find out on modern builds wait.
I already did the intro, so let's just get started rolling the tape, so we're gonna start this project with the base. Essentially, it's two square frame legs that are attached with four stretchers. So to begin, I started by marking out all of my pieces so that I could cut them out on the miter saw. This is what's so great about aluminum. Just like I mentioned. It's really easy just make sure you cut slower than you normally would with wood, and while I was at it, I went ahead and cut all of my 5/8 inch square dowels to length two there's a pretty good chance.
You can probably just friction fit these dowels into the tubes, at least for me they were a really snug fit, but I went the extra mile and I mixed up some two-part epoxy that I used to hold everything in place. If I were to do this project again, I would make the dowels run the full length of the tube that way, it would just be a little bit stronger. I did that on the bottom cross section because the stretchers are in the center of the tube, but, as I said, I would do it on all of them.
On the bottom of the leg pieces, I made little wooden feet by letting the pegs extend an inch from the bottom edge of the tube. I think it just adds a little bit of a touch that makes everything look unique. You could totally use the normal power drill for this, but I've got a drill press, so I set up a quick fence and stop block that way. I could make really quick repeatable holes that were in the right position. I used the countersink that I would be able to recess the screw heads flush with the rest of the pipe surface. That way, when I came back to fill and sand everything down, it would be easier to make smooth.
This is the same jig that I used on my picture frame. Essentially it's two pieces of wood that are set at a ninety-degree angle. Then I could wedge my pieces in place with the scrap piece of plywood, so that I knew I was screwing everything in at 90 degrees square, with both my frames ready. I moved back to the drill press so that I could drill the holes for my top in bottom stretchers now I know the top stretchers probably don't have the strongest joint and that's because I have two screws almost intersecting. I made sure to stagger them that way.