Betsy Hutchinson Table November 02nd, 2018 - 07:27:45
This is a pretty fine grit, so I wasn't expecting a miracle here, but it does eventually make it through the entire slab gets sprayed down with compressed air, as does the camera and my nooks and crannies believe me that abrasive goes everywhere rolling up the tarp. I was able to recover a 2-inch amount of the abrasive. Well, I got to say that was a real blast. Now when it comes to sandblasting, there are a lot of different products on the market, but today we've just scratched the surface. Of course, I realized these are super corny, but better than abrasive jokes. Now we can do the final finish. Prep. I use a cabinet scraper to smooth the faces and save myself some low grit sanding from there. I start with 180 grit and work my way up to 320 on the ends.
You need to balance the sander carefully, but the 2 inch wide surface is pretty easy to work with sanding. This end grain is absolutely crucial since there's so much of it present in the final table. I use a small round over bit to break the sharp edges. The live edges are now pretty sharp too. So I'll use a fine draft to create an eighth inch wide flat. If I encounter any weak areas, I just keep removing stock until it's gone and then reshape the edge. The final shaping is done with sandpaper, as I smooth the transition between the sharp edge and the live surface, and now it's time for finishing the finish will be some simple wipe-on poly.
While you normally wipe this stuff on with a rag. There's no reason you can't use a brush notice, I'm coating the bottom surface. First, this way I can flip it over and work on the top and if the painters pyramids leave any sort of marks, they'll be on the underside, once the first coat dries. I lightly sand with 500 grit paper and recoat before applying code. Number. Three, I stand again with 500 grit paper and then sand. The live edges lightly, with 500 grit abrasive sanding pads, I'm not trying to sand thoroughly here, just smoothing out the high points we're getting close to our final coat. So it's a good idea to vacuum. The surface thoroughly for the fourth and final coat absolute, the finish with some mineral spirits, so that it's really thin and then wet the surface thoroughly.
The diluted, poly will act as a lubricant for my sander, with a 2,000 grit wet dry sanding pad attached. I've got the sander on a pretty slow speed because I'm really just buffing the surface here and I don't want to remove a lot of cure to finish now. I wipe off the excess finish and let it cure believe me when I tell you that this surface is just about the smoothest thing you've ever felt. Now we need to turn our attention to the legs to allow for wood movement, I'm widening the outside sets of holes. Now we can place the legs honestly. These legs are just a bit large for the slab, but I can make them work at the center of each hole. I use a brad point bit to tap an indentation, then using a 1 inch bolt and washer.
I determine how deep I need to drill and Mark it with some tape to attach the bolts to the slab, I'm using little whisper thread taps, so I need to start by drilling a pilot hole. Next, I use a quarter, inch tap and tap the threads right in the slab. Now I can attach the leg assemblies with the quarter inch bolts, I'm using the socket wrench here, but remember these threads are made of wood. So this is overkill. I should really be using a hand driver well here is my new coffee table, which will soon be loaded down with milk and cheerios and all kinds of fun things, but, as you can see, a live edge slab table like this is actually pretty darn simple.