Janette Harvey Table November 30th, 2018 - 02:39:10
We normally do things in straight lines and join panels with straight edges, because they're just easier to make all of our tools and machines when most of them are set up to cut straight square flat lines and actually, once you have that straight Square and flat Edge, they join together really naturally, but, as you know, the grain and boards is normally not straight. It almost always has curves, and especially when you're doing a panel you're dealing with the face grain, which has those Cathedral shapes in it, and once you rip a straight line right through that, your eye is drawn to it.
So when you look at a tabletop, it's normally really easy to tell each individual board, because those natural curves are broken up by straight lines that our eyes are drawn to. While I'm making a tabletop out of two large Sycamore slabs that were a sequence on meaning that we're right beside each other in the tree, so the grain is very similar in both of them. So, instead of interrupting all that, naturally curving grain, with a straight line - that's gonna draw your eye. I want to create a curved edge profile that matches each other, so we can get a good, strong glue joint but that your eye isn't naturally drawn to.
So when you look at this tabletop, it looks like one large slab, I'm going to use these pieces of cardboard to illustrate the issue and trying to get to matching curves without a large form CNC to do it for you. So I cut these with the scissor and, as you can see, they match well, the problem is in woodworking the tool we have to make curves like this is either a handsaw which most slabs are just going to be too big for most band saws and you're. Gonna have a rough cut, which means you have to smooth it afterward anyways and then they're, not gon na match.
So we're probably gonna choose to use a router, but a router bit we're gonna pretend this bottle is my router bit. Has a width and that's going to change the radius of each curve? Let me try to explain so what we do with the router normally is you'd, get one edge good and then use some type of bit with a bearing surface to ride and transfer the edge, but the issue lies in the diameter of your router bit.
So let me line these up and let's say that this is my good slab and I'm trying to copy my edge and I'm using my router with it some type of a template bit, and this is what I get now right now they look pretty good, but Let me put them beside each other and what you'll notice is that, once we line up sort of the peaks and valleys there are these gaps on the curves, because the width of the router bit changes the radius of these circles. Just note that the width of your router bit is going to cause an issue and make these not match now.